The Chinese connection

It ain’t only rice – the Chinatown in BA

Curiosity awakes amongst a few blocks, where ideograms and red lanterns are mixed with the mate and the traditional sidewalks of Buenos Aires. Get deep into the city´s intriguing Chinese world. What follows is an account of a journey through it…

Published in the Nose, June-July issue (*)

A big golden Buddha smiles from behind the glass. At the second chance, the Chinese girl finally understands my question, and points outside: “Comida rica. Restaurant. Ahí”, Miho says. I have to admit it – she is doing the hard part, speaking two languages – I gave up with my Chinese lessons a long time ago… In the warehouse, the “lucky cat” salutes constantly beside some thousand-year-old medicinal objects, and a faded Mickey Mouse.

Dragons, ideograms and red wall charts welcome the unprepared walker, or those seeking the Asiatic enclave in Barrancas de Belgrano. Near the train line, on the north part of Buenos Aires, only five or six blocks give shape to the porteño version of Chinatown, along Arribeños street (funny detail – it´s a particularly difficult street name to pronounce for Chinese people, because of the “rr”).

The Olympic torch didn´t pass through these blocks in April. But, it certainly provoked some whispered comments amongst the community when it recently came to Argentina. Chinese people don´t often appear in local newspapers, but they were uncommonly at the centre of attention a weeks ago.

Even the Chinese New Year (celebrated in February) went almost unnoticed, although the traditional costume and character parade, is worthy of a full-day visit. This is the year 4,705 in their calendar, and the 60.000 Chinese immigrants living in Argentina didn´t hesitate in conducting their cheerful festivities.

Signs of the time. A Jackie Chan poster hangs over the top of a wall, and Bolivian girls work in almost every shop, as constant translators. They don´t speak Chinese, but they do understand codes and faces from their bosses. “This is my third year here with the Chinese”, Carla describes. “People keep asking me about oriental traditions and I have no idea…”

Finally, at “Todos Contentos´ restaurant, I choose a window seat, and order chicken chau mein. Two tables behind, a group of Chinese, Brazilian and Argentine friends share a lunch and discuss some expressions in Spanish and what are good ways of expressing them. The Chinese lady is right, of course. But, I lose the conversation when the waitress brings my food. The large portion is equally matched by my hunger. Soy sauce, tofu, black beans, and dijon mustard are all available on the table.

I realise that the tablecloths describe the Chinese horoscope, the five basic elements – metal, water, wood, fire and earth – and the twelve signs (I´m a – zodiacal – pig, so that´s the end of that topic.). The room is decorated with red paper lanterns and the waitresses wear a kind of kimono. I try eating with chopsticks, but the fork option is irremediable, owing to my clumsy hands.

There some spots to eat on the go, too. On the sidewalks, or in the entrance of some shops, you can try szechuan beef stir fry, kung pao chicken, spring rolls or pineapple fried rice. This is a cheaper, and faster alternative if you are in a rush.

Customs. There are also Korean residents in Buenos Aires, mostly located in Flores, and there is a strong bond with Japanese customs – like having sushi and visiting the Japanese Gardens, next to the zoo. Here, in Argentina we often blend nationalities, or origins, and so end up looking like fools who falsely attribute culture and customs incorrectly. Perhaps because of repeated misunderstandings, or because of the pressures of consumer demand, Chinese small businesses include products that are not from Chinese culture, such as samurai swords or bonsai trees – both originally Japanese.

“Almost all of our customers are Argentines, or tourists. The Chinese community buys only a few things”, Jin explains. He works in a small store, selling souvenirs. In the supermarket – where people shop, have lunch and make friends – it is easy to believe the influence of marketing: every product has labels with ideograms, and it is pretty hard to be tempted to buy one. All of them look indecipherable. The fish smell is omnipresent in there, no matter if you stay at the front, or go near the vegetables.

Just a block away, in the famous Buddha BA resto-bar, you can find a tea-room and a free art gallery. Wood furniture, patchworks, ikebanas and origamis dominate the well illuminated rooms. Outside, a small nice garden complements the atmosphere and the perception of being far, far away. On the street, a traditional yellow and black taxi makes its presence felt as I hear the horn, and the marked change in culture brings home an altogether different feeling of jet-lag.

(*) Publicada en the Nose, edición junio-julio de 2008.
Texto por Fernando Amdan